Keith at Semenggoh Orangutan Sanctuary at Kuching, June 2009. photo: Pat Davey

Sarawak and Sabah (Borneo) Malaysia

During June 2009 Pat and I went on a Peregrine "Borneo Encompassed" Adventure Tour that visited many parts of Sarawak and Sabah, the two eastern states of Malaysia of the northern half of the island of Borneo.

Along with three other Australians, Sandy and Margie MacMillan, farmers from central Victoria, Rosemary Leckel from Melbourne and our wonderful Iban guide Kathy, we travelled by longboats into remote regions of Sarawak to visit original Orang peoples in their traditional longhouses.

After leaving Kuching we visited Semenggoh Wildlife Centre to see critically endangered Orangutans, visited and stayed in longhouses, explored four wondrous cave systems in Mulu National Park and saw the dusk exodus of millions of bats. We walked the legendary "Headhunter's Trail", lived with the Iban peoples and took part in their cultural activities and ate their wonderful food. The Iban people we met were always friendly, welcoming and wonderfully hospitable, making all of us feel like one of their family.

Using various longboats the tour members travelled deep into and out of Sarawak through overhanging tropical jungles, full of wildlife and exotic vegetation. As we headed down the Terikan river we passed intensive forestry activities, where trees were harvested to make way for massive tracts of palm oil plantations, much to the detriment of Orangutans and other wildlife. At Limbang we were sad to loose the knowledgeable and caring company of Kathy, but we were joined by a new helpful guide Randall. Randall had a Dusan and Chinese heritage and this added flavour, often culinary, to our fascinating jounrey. Randal went out of his way to ensure that every member of the group had their needs and interests met.

After leaving Limbang, Sarawak, we boarded an ocean-going Express Boat which first took us to Labuan Island and then onward to Kota Kinabalu, capital of Sabah.

The Australians that travelled with us in Sarawak, Sandy and Margie MacMillan, farmers from central Victoria, Rosemary Leckel from Melbourne and ourselves were joined by Neville and Yvonne Wilson from Albury, Victoria. Along with our guide Randall Sean, Lawrence our driver, Mick-ell and John-ee our Mount Kinabalu guides, we travelled throughout Sabah to see the wonderful sights, meet fascinating people and take part in adventures that will live in our memories forever.

As soon as we arrived at Kota Kinabalu the capital of Sabah, Randal and Lawrence whisked us to the far north, to the Kudat region at the northern tip of Sabah. The sandy beach was quite similar to those at Newcastle, except that its waves were tiny and the water was warm. It was still extremely refreshing. We travelled to the Rungus Longhouse, Maranjak Homestay at Bavaganzo village. This beautifully created traditionally thatched longhouse was like something out of an island paradise. The entertainment and food were magnificent as well.

Next, it was off to the towering and formidable Mount Kinabalu (4,095 metres), not quite twice as high as Australia's Mount Kosciuszko (2,228 metres). After seeing the immense Rafflesia keithii flower and clambering across the aerial rainforest walk, it was a six kilometre, incredibly steep, walking track to climb 3 kilometres high to Laban Rata, perched on the steep sides of the towering mountain. Altitude sickness forced Pat and I to retreat before we could climb the other kilometre to the top, while Neville and Yvonne made it to the top.

At Labuan and Sabah, our group visited many World War II Memorials, like Ranau and the notorious camp at Sandakan, where Australian and British prisoners of war were incarcerated in hellish conditions and were then finally forced to struggle through 200 kilometres of inhospitable jungle to Ranau, below brooding Mount Kinibalu. This resulted in a catastrophic loss of life in the final days of the war. This part of our journey was particularly emotional. Also at Sandakan was Sepilok Orangutan Reserve, Agnes Keith's home and the magnificent Sandakan Buddhist Wat, Puu Jih Shih.

The final part of the journey was along the Kinabatangan River to Sukau Rainforest Lodge. Here we saw two groups of wild Pigmy Borneo Elephants, wild Orangutangs, many species of Hornbill, thousands of Pig-tailed Macaques, Long-tailed Macaques and Probiscus Monkeys, countless waterbirds, rare hornbills and a wild female Orangutan.

Back at Kota Kinabalu we snorkelled in the Tunku Abdul Rahmen marine park. Our trip to Sarawak and Sabah had only been for three weeks, but Pat and I felt in was one of the most wonderful trips we have ever experienced.

If you have a question or enquiry about this website, please email keith@keithdavey.com.au

website updated 19th September 2008